Winemaking
Ideally, the earlier in the day the better for harvesting grapes,
for a number of reasons. First, obviously, because it is cooler
and fruit preservation is much better when it is cold. It also
increases the chances of avoiding the warmest part of the day if
transportation is involved. Finally, the earlier the grapes
leave the vineyard, the earlier they get to the winery. Since crush days are
usually very long days, sometimes stretching well into the night,
being able to get an early start is a definite plus.
Once delivered
to the winery, the grapes are weighed and brought to the crush pad, where they
are de-stemmed and either lightly crushed or not at all. Prior to de-stemming,
M.O.G. (matters other than grapes) are sorted out, if needed. Potassium
metabisulfite is then added to neutralize any potential spoilage organisms coming
in with the grapes (wild yeasts, mildew, mold, etc.).
Red wine
For red
grapes, must (grape skins, pulp and juice) adjustments are performed at this
stage (mostly TA/pH adjustments) and the yeast starter is pitched into the
must along with the required yeast nutrients and enzymes. Fermentation
will last anywhere from 5-10 days depending on how hot the fermentation gets
(80-90°F), how vigorous the selected yeast is, how much nutrients are added
and how high the starting sugar level is. Red fermentation takes place
in 1/2-ton plastic harvest bins. The bin's low aspect ratio (height/width)
allows very good contact between the skins and the fermenting juice, maximizing
color/flavor extraction. Many larger wineries prefer these fermenters
for their premium wines for that very reason.
Fermentation
caps (grape skins pushed up to the surface by the CO2 generated from
the fermentation) are punched down 3-4 times a day to prevent the
cap from drying up (prone to VA generation) and maintain a good skin-juice
contact. A daily oxygenation pump-over is performed to promote
a healthy fermentation. This modern technique ensures that
the yeast gets an adequate oxygen supply, minimizing the production
of off flavors/odors sometimes generated by oxygen-starved struggling
yeast, and ensuring a strong finish, reducing the risk of stuck fermentation,
especially for very ripe fruit. Besides softening up the tannins,
this procedure also minimizes vegetative components certain varieties,
such as Cabernet Franc, can develop. To further mute this vegetative
character, oak cubes are sometimes added to the fermenting must,
taking advantage of the strong integration function played by the
fermentation.
When
the alcoholic fermentation is down to the 5-10°B, malolactic (ML
for short) bacteria is added to transform sharper malic acid (as
in green apples) into softer lactic acid (as in dairy products) and
stabilize the wine against spoilage agents preying on malic acid. The
reason to inoculate for ML at this point rather than after alcoholic
fermentation has completed, as is often done in warmer areas, is
to take advantage of the fact that at this stage wine temperature
is still fairly high (70's) from the alcoholic fermentation, and
ML bacteria does not perform well under 65-70°F. Since average
temperature in this region can drop down to the 50's during crush,
especially in cooler year when harvest is later, if we waited until
after alcoholic fermentation was over, the wine would be too cold
and ML fermentation would be struggling, would last for a much longer
time and sometimes would never finish. Furthermore, the time
when ML is winding down is a very vulnerable time for wine (sitting
duck for spoilage) and the sooner we can add the protective sulfite
required to protect it against these spoilers, the better.
After
the fermentation runs dry (i.e., no more sugar left - all transformed
into alcohol) then we press, first draining the free run from the
must and then pressing the remaining skins into separate containers. The
press fraction is usually more extracted than the free run but it
is also harsher and more prone to spoilage (containing a larger fraction
of dead yeast cells, also called lees). Once we are sure that
the press run is healthy and we feel the free run would benefit from
this addition we blend some of the press run back into the free run. What
is not needed goes into our Titan house blend, aptly named because
it is the most extracted part of the press and, after softening it
out with some fining, a very concentrated, but smooth wine emerges. Rather
than blending all these press fractions together in a large container,
we fill up one barrel at a time and each barrel is a distinctive
blend and will be assigned a different Titan number. Therefore,
each Titan release will be unique and never be more than 25 cases
(i.e., 1 barrel) and we expect it to go fast, given its high quality/price
ratio.
From then
on, aging proceeds for at least 18 months in various containers (new/used oak
barrels, stainless steel tanks/drums, etc.), depending on the level & type
of oak exposure Jacques decides each wine requires at the various stages of
its development. Oak from various sources (French, American or Hungarian)
and toast levels (medium, medium+ and heavy) are used to complement specifically
the fruit in each wine without overwhelming it, balance being the operative
word here.
The
wine containers also spend some time outside exposed to the coldest
winter temperatures to precipitate any excess tartaric acid and stabilize
it against potential tartrate crystal deposits later on in the bottle. We
let our wines smooth out on their own, racking them only as needed
to gradually clarify them and only fine them near bottling time,
if we feel further softening is called for. We also do a coarse
filtration at bottling.
White Wine
White grapes
are pressed immediately after crushing. Sometimes crushing is by-passed
altogether, doing whole-cluster pressing, to reduce the juice exposure to crushed
skins and minimize the astringency occasionally resulting from such contact
for some varieties.
The
resulting juice (no skins or pulp) is then chilled and allowed to
settle to clean up the juice by racking it off the precipitated sediments
into the stainless steel fermentation tank and eliminate possible
sources of astringency or off flavors/aromas. The juice is
then allowed to warm up, adjustments are made (again, mostly TA/pH)
and the yeast/nutrients/enzymes are added and once fermentation is
underway, the fermenting juice is chilled back down to about 50°F
(crucial for full aroma development). Here, due to a cooler
temperature, fermentation can last 2-3 weeks. The trick here
is to ferment as cold as possible without stalling the fermentation,
so a fair amount of temperature adjustments are made.
Once the
sugar/alcohol level reaches the desired level, then the wine is chilled to
stop fermentation and sulfite is added to kill the yeast and prevent any ML
activity. This chilling also cold stabilizes the wine against future
tartrate crystal deposits in the bottle when cooled down in the fridge before
serving.
Minimal
racking is done, only to remove as much of the lees and precipitated tartrate
crystals as possible early on, because white wine is much more susceptible
to oxidation than red wine. Fining, if required to clarify/soften the
wine, is done shortly before bottling. Tighter filtration than for red
wine is performed at bottling, which occurs much sooner than for red wines,
usually during the year following harvest.
Bottling
We use our
own semi-automated bottling equipment rather than use an automated mobile line
because it gives us more flexibility when we bottle. Rather than
bottle the wine when the mobile line is available and when we have accumulated
enough wine to meet the minimum daily bottling quantities required by such
lines, we bottle each wine when we decide it is ready. Furthermore, we
also believe that bottling is a celebratory event we would like to share with
interested customers (in return for free wine of course). So keeping
each bottling at a reasonable size and having the ability to schedule them
on weekends when most people are available was also a factor in our decision.
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