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Milestones
Pre 1995: The Canada Years
For Jacques,
the wine adventure all started a couple of decades ago in Ottawa, with one of
these 2-hr tasting seminars, attended more to please some friends than by real
interest. Wine had always been in the fabric of his French Canadian family
background as he was growing up, but for him it was just part of the landscape,
nothing more. That tasting seminar, besides demonstrating how much better
premium wines could be, intrigued him about why some wines taste so much better
than others. The first thing the wine instructor said to people attending
was that they were taking this seminar at their own risk because the increased
discrimination they were about to gain would mean was that their wine bill would
most likely increase appreciably, and he was right.
The curiosity
spark was struck and he signed up for a full-fledged 200 hrs wine sommelier diploma
program to explore all facets of wine tasting. A few years later, after
graduation, he started consulting on the side (still had to hold on to this day
job - higher wine bills to pay!) with restaurants, to put their wine list together. Curiosity
eventually got the best of him again and he bought a winemaking kit (carboy,
siphon, concentrate, yeast, etc.), combining his knowledge for the finished product
and his technical background to peel off another layer of wine understanding.
Despite the
fact that the wine (a Riesling concentrate kit) oxidized with disconcerting speed
(no mention of sulfite in the instructions!), he was hooked, started to read
about this subject voraciously and eventually joined three winemaking clubs (Canada,
and Ontario in particular, has a thriving non-commercial winemaking community),
indulged his natural penchant for experimentation, and started to submit wines
to local regional, national and international competitions, with increasing success.
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1995-1998: The
Texas Years
This drive
culminated in a "Best-of-Show" award and a handful of gold and silver medals at
the prestigious American Wine Society Annual Competition in 1995, shortly after
Jacques moved to Texas to follow a day-job career opportunity. That accomplishment
was really the turning point where the idea of winemaking as a second career
started to develop. In parallel, to gain further sensory analytical skills,
he entered and eventually graduated from the well-regarded 3-year wine judge
program given by the American Wine Society.
While in Texas,
Jacques got to know some grape growers and continued to make wine. The growing conditions in Texas can be quite challenging (vines shut down in temperatures above 100°F, thereby slowing down ripening). So, like many Texas winemakers, he had to step up his winemaking technique to compensate.
Since he missed
the winemaking clubs from Ottawa, he started one in the DFW area called the WineNose
(still active to this day). He also judged at the Lone Star Wine
competitions and started to give talks on sensory wine appraisal to the amateur
and commercial winemaking community. In addition, he was one of the founders of
the Wine Society of Texas, now a thriving wine organization with eight chapters across
the state.
Summarizing
Jacques' Texas experience is very simple: Wonderfully friendly, gregarious
and hospitable people! And, in particular, a certain Andrea, who he met
not too long before he had to move to California, landing in Silicon Valley, to follow
another day-job career opportunity (and getting closer to major wine regions).
The
thread linking Jacques and Andrea's paths was unbelievably wispy. They each had
a part Akita mixed breed dog and decided to attend the same dog show to
see in person what pure bred Akita were like and there they met ! Andrea eventually joined him in California not too long after
Jacques moved, taking up a position with one of the big accounting firms. And
yes, the dogs are still with them.
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1998-2001: The
Early California Years
The first thing
Jacques did in California was to establish the wine judging credentials required
to judge in California's major wine competitions, eventually judging at many
county fairs as well as the CA State Fair. He also kept on honing his winemaking
skills, taking full advantage of the proximity of many top notch grape sources,
a complete novelty for him. And again, not finding any winemaking clubs in the
area (surprising for California, considering that in Ottawa alone there was a
dozen of them) he started one called the BAWA (Bay Area Wine Association) and
which is still very active today.
During the
first few years in California, Andrea and Jacques roamed the numerous mountain
hiking trails, ski centers, sailing and scuba diving areas, and wine regions. Their quest gradually changed from finding
good wines to finding an area to eventually purchase a property to start a winery
and which would be weekend driving distance from Silicon Valley (that day job
again!).
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2001-2004: The
Early Sierra Foothills Years
After a few
years of looking around, on their way back from a ski trip in the Lake
Tahoe area, they decided to swing by Nevada City and Grass Valley to see first
hand what the fuss about this area was, having heard so many time "it's
just beautiful up there!". Immediately it felt like home and before
long they had contacted an agent to find a winery-compatible property. After
looking at various small properties, they chanced onto a gorgeous 15 acre property
not yet on the market which had a great house, a nice barn and... a small
3 acre vineyard, with another 7 acres plantable.
Owning and
operating a vineyard had not been in the plan up to then but the property was
so perfect! Since grapes are required to make wine anyway, it
was in line with the general direction they were taking. Hamercier Vineyards
was born. They then took just about every vineyard-related courses offered
by nearby UC Davis and hired a vineyard consultant to guide them in the right
direction. First major decision was to rip out the existing vines (own-rooted
Chardonnay) to replace them, in 2002, with phylloxera-resistant rooted vines. Rather
than just plant what everybody else was planting, many varieties and clones were
planted to find out first hand which ones grew best in their particular vineyard.
From the time
this property was acquired, it was a pretty natural decision for Andrea to take
charge of the vineyard operations and for Jacques to assume winemaking responsibilities.
A couple years of weekend commuting between the south Bay Area and Grass Valley
then followed.
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2004-Today: The
Solune Years
Eventually,
it became apparent that full time residency was needed to get over the start-up
hump if Solune was ever going to get off the ground. So Jacques left his
day-job in 2004 and moved to Grass Valley to dedicate himself fully to this project
while Andrea accepted a position with one of the main accounting firms in the
area.
This
move also allowed Jacques to expand his judging to international wine competitions
(Spain, France, Switzerland, Argentina, Canada, etc.), giving him unique and intimate exposure
to top foreign wines but also to share notes/secrets with leading winemakers
and wine experts from many countries also judging at these competitions, often
culminating with in-depth visits to their wine facilities. Overall, the judging
experience has been providing him with a great opportunity to develop not only
an excellent Californian, but a world-wide resource network and has been invaluable
in developing a unique winemaking philosophy and wine style for Solune.
Solune's
first off-site crush was in 2003, using a nearby bonded custom crush facility. After
outfitting the barn for winemaking, the first on-site bonded crush was in 2004,
using top quality grapes from some of the best growers in the foothills and some
grapes from their own maturing vineyard, totaling 12 tons and involving 9 grape
varieties. In 2005, the crush size increased to 22 tons. Eventually
the plan is to crush about 50 tons, half being estate grapes from Solune's expanding
Hamercier vineyard and the other half coming from purchased grapes, resulting
in a production of about 3000 cases. This 50-50 mix will provide the flexibility
required to deal with fluctuations in their vineyard's crop size, at the mercy
of Mother Nature (mostly late spring frost dangers), while providing the opportunity
to experiment with (and adopt) varieties not grown in their own vineyard.
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